Day 5 – Kara to Pushtirang: Through Freezing Rivers and Endless Climbs
After an enjoyable acclimatization day at Kara, it was finally time to move towards our next campsite—Pushtirang (4,100 m). Although the altitude gain from Kara (3,700 m) was only around 400 meters, everyone knew this was going to be a physically demanding day.
We woke up early, packed our bags, had breakfast, and by 9:00 AM started our trek.
Today's biggest challenge wasn't the climb—it was the river crossings.
Within the first few minutes of the trek, our guides instructed everyone to remove their trekking shoes and wear sandals. Ahead of us were multiple glacier-fed streams that had to be crossed on foot.
The moment I stepped into the icy water, it felt as if my feet had gone numb instantly. The water was unbelievably cold. Standing still wasn't an option because within seconds you could lose sensation in your feet. We kept moving continuously, carefully balancing ourselves against the strong current.
One by one, we crossed four major river streams, helping each other wherever needed. During one crossing, a fellow trekker's sandal was swept away by the current, reminding us how powerful these mountain rivers can be.
The entire river-crossing section took nearly 45 minutes, and it was undoubtedly one of the most thrilling experiences of the trek.
Once we crossed the last stream, everyone quickly dried their feet, wore trekking shoes again and prepared for the long climb ahead.
Now came the real challenge.
The trail climbed relentlessly through rocky slopes and alpine meadows. At an altitude above 4,000 meters, the thinner air made every step harder. Breathing became heavier, and frequent short breaks became essential.
Throughout the day, light rain accompanied us, creating a mystical atmosphere. Thick clouds floated between the mountains, occasionally revealing breathtaking views before hiding them again.
After nearly four and a half hours of trekking, we finally reached Pushtirang Campsite.
Unlike the previous camps, we never really saw the sun here. The campsite remained wrapped in clouds and drizzle throughout the day, giving it a raw Himalayan character.
As the rain slowed briefly, we quickly changed into dry clothes and settled into our tents. Later in the evening, rain returned once again, but this time nobody minded. We all knew tomorrow was the biggest day of the expedition.
our trek leaders checked each trekker's SpO₂ level to ensure everyone was fit enough to attempt the pass. Safety always came first at high altitude.
Dinner was served unusually early, around 6:30 PM.
The trek leaders briefed us about the next day's schedule.
Wake-up time: 2:00 AM
Trek start: 3:00 AM
Destination: Bhaba Pass (4,915 m)
Everyone quietly finished dinner, checked their gear one final time, and went to sleep with a mix of excitement and nervousness.
Day 6 – Crossing Bhaba Pass (4,915 m): The Day I'll Never Forget
The alarm rang at exactly 2:00 AM.
Outside, it was pitch dark.
Inside the tents, everyone silently packed their last few belongings.
After a light breakfast of dalia, boiled chana and hot tea, we switched on our headlamps and stepped into the darkness.
At exactly 3:00 AM, our summit push began.
The first five kilometers consisted of continuous uphill climbing through rocky terrain.
The only light visible was the line of headlamps moving slowly across the mountain.
Our guide instructed us to walk in a single file.
"Step exactly where the person in front of you steps."
Just fifteen minutes into the climb, it started raining.
The trail immediately became slippery.
Darkness, rain, steep rocks and freezing temperatures made every step more challenging.
Still, nobody wanted to give up.
The higher we climbed, the thinner the air became.
Every few minutes we stopped briefly to catch our breath before continuing.
The climb demanded patience more than speed.
After nearly three and a half hours of relentless ascent, the rocky trail slowly transformed into snow.
Rain gradually turned into snowfall.
By the time we approached Bhaba Pass (4,915 m), our jackets, gloves and backpacks were completely soaked.
The freezing wind was cutting through every layer of clothing.
Finally...
We reached the summit.
Standing at 4,915 meters, looking across two completely different worlds, was an indescribable feeling.
On one side lay the lush green Bhaba Valley of Kinnaur.
On the other stretched the rugged, barren beauty of Spiti's Pin Valley.
The contrast was surreal.
Because of the extreme weather, we could stay at the pass for barely five minutes.
We clicked a few photographs, congratulated one another, and immediately began our descent.
Then came the most exciting part of the entire trek.
Instead of walking down every snowy slope, we slid.
Three different snow slides carried us rapidly downhill, covering nearly 300 meters in total.
For a few unforgettable moments, every adult in the group became a child again.
The laughter echoed across the mountains.
The snow slide saved both time and energy, but our journey was far from over.
We still had almost 10 to 11 kilometers left before reaching Baldar.
The trail constantly climbed and descended through rocky terrain.
Our clothes remained wet.
Rain continued on and off.
Water was limited.
Packed lunch provided just enough energy to keep moving.
Every step now required determination more than strength.
Finally, at around 3:00 PM, after nearly 13 hours of continuous trekking, we reached Baldar Campsite (3,900 m).
Exhausted.
Cold.
Completely drenched.
But incredibly proud.
Nature had one final surprise waiting for us.Due to the severe weather, the horses carrying our luggage couldn't cross Bhaba Pass.
Fortunately, the nearby TTH expedition team welcomed us into their large dining tent, offering shelter and warmth until our logistics arrived.
That evening reminded us of something every mountaineer understands—
In the Himalayas, mountains may test you, but people always help you.
As we finally settled down to rest, one thought kept running through my mind:
We had successfully crossed one of India's most beautiful and challenging Himalayan passes.
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